I have a new PDF pattern for you guys!! It is a super quick and easy anatomical heart appliqué!
As I'm sure you know by now, I'm obsessed with all things Halloween. I love the big elaborate costumes, but I also love little touches of macabre. Things that I can wear all October long, simply as a part of my outfit, without drawing a ridiculous number of stares. And this simple little heart is absolutely perfect! You can add it to a tshirt, a dress, a coat, or a costume. Make it really stand out with contrasting fabric, or make it a subtle addition as I did here.
I appliquéd this thrift store sweater last friday, and then immediately wore it out to Kings Island for their Halloween Haunt night and it was perfection!
Now I just need to make about ten more!
If you haven't picked up the pattern yet, you can head on over to the shop to grab it. I have the basic written instructions on the one page pdf as well, but if you want a more detailed tutorial, you are in the right place!
Cut out the 2 (only two!) pattern pieces, and use them to cut your fabric. I really like the look of having two different tones for the two different pieces of the heart. A super easy way to do this is to use the same fabric, just flipped to the back side, which is what I did here! One is right side up, and the other is right side down.
Transfer the dotted line markings from your pattern to your fabric. I honestly just used a black marker since I planned to sew over them in black thread anyway.
If you are using a fabric that may unravel along the edges, you can use fray check or some sort of stabilizer to help keep your fabric intact.
Once the fray check has dried, intertwine your two heart pieces together so that they look like so:
Pin them into place on your main fabric (whatever you are adding this appliqué to) and topstitch them in place! I just followed along the edges of my heart pieces, and then sewed down a few of the dotted lines as well.
Then, if you like, you can use embroidery thread to really make your heart lines pop!
Boom! Done! Enjoy your new anatomical heart! And don't forget to use #anatomicalheartapplique so I can see your creations!!
If you haven't seen Sylvia's Epic Halloween Quilt on FlyingParrotQuilts.com, you need to drop everything and go look! I am absolutely in love with her quilt blocks, and her color choices! One day, I will make this quilt for myself! Mark my words! I'm extra excited to see her Round-up for it this year because she gives my Tombstone Pillow a mention! I would love to see someone make both the quilt and the Tombstone pillows for an epic Halloween bed set. Because you know that's what is going to happen over here at the Stage household one day.
Guest Post by Annabelle, Chief Crafter and Writer at Wunderlabel
Have you ever noticed that a basketball player does much better when they are wearing the
right shoes, have a perfectly aired up ball, and are at their home gym?
Whether you are crafting or playing a sport – or even doing another hobby – the perfect space
is the key to your success.
The perfect space is what enables you to hone your skills and create that perfect, finished
It is like having all the correct components when you are baking a cake:
If you are missing the flour or sugar, or even just the food coloring, something in your finished
product will be off. So, when you are crafting, it is essential that you find the perfect sewing
space to master your skills, ensuring you have all the key components for success.
The perfect sewing space consists of proper lighting to match your colors or contrast and goes
all the way down to proper storage for your patterns.
Not only will the perfect sewing space help improve your skills as a crafter, but it will also make
you more comfortable and ensure proper care of your tools.
It is hard to do your best if you aren’t feeling your best. But, a perfect sewing space will have a
comfortable working space with enough room for you and your tools.
And, it is hard to do your best if your tools are not in top notch condition. But, the perfect
sewing space will take care of that as well, offering you storage for tools, threads, patterns, and
Keep reading to see the 14 Steps to Creating Your Perfect Sewing Space, an infographic
designed by Wunderlabel.com
Hello, and welcome back to the Tombstone Sewalong!
It's time for Part 5, during which we will be finishing our tombstones! If you are just stumbling upon this series, you can head over to Part 1, and start there!
SEWING YOUR PILLOW TOGETHER
Now that you have put the cording on your pillow (this was done in Part 4), it is time to close your pillow up!
Match up the “Start” notch on the boxing, and the “Start” dot on the front of the pillow with right sides together, and pin it in place.
Now do the same for the rest of the corner markings around the edge of your pillow, all the way until it gets back to the start. These will help keep you on track, because the hard part of sewing boxing is making sure that the front and back of the pillow are directly matched up through the boxing, otherwise your pillow will skew and be lopsided.
After pinning the important marks, you can pin the rest of the gusset in place.
Now you can sew! Sew from the “Start”, across the bottom, and all the way around until you get back to the “Start” dot in the bottom right corner (see picture below).
You should arrive at each of your pinned markings with an equal amount of fabric on the gusset and the front pieces, but this isn’t always the case. Different people and machines mean that it isn’t always perfect. To help, keep checking as you go to make sure that you are on track, and if you find that you are getting off track, you can gently stretch the fabric that is too short to help make it fit. Or add more clips into the shorter fabric to help release more tension.
Now we repeat for the back of your pillow. Once again, pin all the markings together, and then the rest of the gusset before you sew. But this time, you will sew from the “Start”, up the side, across the top, then down around and across the bottom to the end (the opposite order of the front)
Stop sewing about 4-5 inches before you return to your “Start” mark to leave an opening for stuffing your pillow.
Got a tricky fabric, and you just can’t get MY gusset markings to line up with the front of YOUR pillow?
Don’t sweat it!
Here is Option #2: Sew the gusset onto the front, without worrying about lining things up. BUT, when you get done, make new markings on the gusset where it lines up with the markings on the front, and transfer these markings to the opposite side of the gusset (exactly across), to be lined up with the back of your pillow. Now just make sure the back of the pillow lines up with your new markings on the gusset so that the pillow isn’t lopsided!
CLOSING YOUR PILLOW
Once you are done sewing, turn the pillow inside right, poke out all the corners, and fill it with your polyfil!
A screwdriver is a great too to help you poke out all the corners.
Now turn the edges of the opening in, and pin the pillow shut like in the example below. Then, using a color of thread that blends in, sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch. If you need a refresher for how to do this stitch, check out a tutorial on my blog HERE
And now you have a finished tombstone!! Yay!! I would love to see photos of your finished cemetery. Just shoot me an email ( email@example.com ) or use #tombstonesewalong on instagram.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Today on the sewalong, we are going to be cutting and sewing
If you missed Part 1, Part 2, or Part 3 you might want to go back to see what we've done so far! Or, if you are here just to learn some tips and tricks about cording, read on! Also, if you don't actually want cording on your tombstone, you can just completely skip it! But I do love the look of the cording on the pillow, so I definitely go for it. You can also buy pre-made cording if you prefer. But the instructions below will help you to make your own cording, which is sure to match your face fabric!
If you can’t find the cording you want at a craft store, take a look at clothesline. My local grocery store sells a clothesline that is perfect for cording! I recommend buying 5/32” cording, but if you buy another size, you can just adjust the width of the bias strips to work for you. Aim to have about 1/2" of seam allowance on the edge of your cording when it is sewn.
CUTTING BIAS STRIPS
First, you will need to cut bias strips to cover the cord. Fold the fabric on the diagonal and cut along that line.
Then, using a fabric marker, draw your cut lines 1 ¾ “ apart using your new diagonal cut edge as a guide. Cut enough strips to cover 140” of cording.
JOINING THE STRIPS
After you have cut enough strips, you will need to join the ends. Pick two ends that, when put together, match up like the picture below.
Then turn one strip 90 degrees, and lay it on top with the diagonal edges lined up. Offset them just a bit, so that ¼ “ in is where the edges of your fabric match up. Then sew that ¼ “ seam, and press it open. Join all of your bias strips this way.
MAKING THE CORDING
Once they are all joined, you will make the cording using either a cording foot or a zipper foot on your machine. If you use a cording foot, make sure you are using the correct size (3/16" foot or a 1/4" foot).
If you are using a zipper foot, try to get up as close as possible next to the cording as you sew (shown below). The strips get wrapped in half around the cord as you go, like the photo below. Make sure you have the right side facing out.
If you are using 5/32” cording, and 1 ¾ “ fabric strips, the leftover fabric that makes up the seam allowance for the cording should measure about ½”, which is perfect. If you have used your own measurements, be sure to cut down your seam allowance to ½” before moving on to the next step.
SEWING ON THE CORDING
Next, sew the cording onto the front and back of your pillow. Start on the bottom edge of the tombstone, leaving a few inches of cording free before you start stitching. Simply line up the edge of the cording with the edge of your pillow, and sew as close to the cording as you can.
When you get to a corner, or to the curved edge of the tombstone, you will need to clip the cording seam allowance to make it easier.
When you get to the bottom of the pillow again, leave a few inches free before you get to where you started. Lay the two ends of the cording overlapping, and cut the ends so that they overlap exactly 1 and ¾“ (it is no coincidence that this is the same size as the width of our bias strips. These measurements should always match.)
If your cording likes to fray, you can use a small piece of tape to keep it from unraveling!
Now take out the stitching of your cording a few inches in each direction, so that you have room to sew the ends together. Match the ends like the picture below at a 90 degree angle, and sew the diagonal. It should look just like the other joins you made for the strips.
Finally, cut your inside cord so that the ends just meet in the middle, tape them together, and finish sewing the cording to the bottom edge of the pillow like normal. Bam! Perfect continuous cording every time!
Make sure you do both the front and back of your pillow.
Today on the sewalong, we are getting down to the real business of tombstone sewing. We will be cutting out our fabric pattern pieces, and quilting the front of our "stone".
If you missed Part 1 and Part 2, you might want to go back to see what materials you need, and how to put together the PDF pattern.
CUT IT OUT!
Here is the breakdown of what you need to cut:
2 of Piece A in your main fabric
1 of Piece A in your scrap fabric (this can be the same as your main fabric too if that's easiest)
1 or 2 of Piece A in your batting. Your choice, depending on how much loft you want for your quilted area. I prefer a double layer!
1 of Piece B in your main fabric
1 of Piece C in your main fabric
My favorite way to cut out my pieces is to lay the pattern on top of my fabric, weight it down with whatever is handy (this often ends up being a jar of pens, my phone, a stapler, etc) and then carefully cut around it. You could also trace around your pattern pieces with a fabric marker if you prefer, and then move the pattern paper away and cut it out. Sewers choice!
Join your B and C pieces at the "corner join" marks.
Note: Your boxing (the really really long piece that makes up the edges of your 3D pillow) can be cut out as patterned, or out of one long piece, or if you don’t have pieces of fabric long enough for the pattern, you can join a few together. Simply cut out multiple pieces of the correct width (3.5“) and sew them together (right sides together, ½” seam). There is already one built in seam in the pattern to allow for less fabric waste in the pattern layout. Go ahead and join those now.
Don't forget to transfer the important marks from your pattern to your fabric. Don't worry about the quilt pattern yet. Just transfer the start/end point onto the RIGHT sides of your two main pieces for A (these will be on opposite corners if both of your pieces are right side up).
Then for B/C transfer the start, end, and corner lines onto the WRONG side of your boxing strip. The corner marks will help keep your on track while you sew, so that your pillow doesn't get too skewed. Make sure to mark both edges of your strip at these dashed lines.
And you will need to clip the boxing in the indicated areas as well. Clipping makes it easier to sew around the curved top of the tombstone. The pattern shows you where, and approximately how far apart to clip. Look for the little dashed lines and the sections that say “CLIP”. Just make sure that your clips are only ½” deep. If it is easier, you can draw a line ½” on the edge of your piece to help you not clip too deep.
Note: the pre-clipping is totally optional. You can also clip as you sew around the pillow if you prefer.
QUILTING YOUR TOMBSTONE
Ok now for the fun part: transferring the quilting pattern. There are several methods for doing this, and I've selected three here to demonstrate.
Once you have your pattern traced, and ready to sew, you now create a sandwich: bottom layer is your scrap piece A, then two layers of batting, and top it off with a face fabric piece A, RIGHT side up. Then of course if you are using the press'n seal or tissue paper, that gets aligned on top of that! pin everything carefully in place and get to quilting.
Some people use a free motion quilting foot for this part. I'm terrible at this. So I just topstitch it all with a normal foot! I usually set the stitch length a little smaller, and go slow, even hand cranking when necessary to be more precise.
Take your time!! This quilting can be time consuming. You can take it in little chunks if you prefer. The next section of the Sewalong isn't for another week, so you can spread this out if you want :)
Also, you can always pick and choose which lines you want to quilt. You could always just do an R.I.P. and be done!
Either way, I'll see you back here in a week! Happy sewing!
Welcome to Part 2! Today we will be putting together the pattern!
(If you haven't got your pattern yet, click HERE)
If you missed Part 1, you will want to go back and check it out because I share all the materials you will need, as well as the schedule for the entire sewalong.
LET'S GET STARTED!
The first step is to print your tombstone pattern. You will need Adobe Acrobat to open it...
When you go to print, make sure that you set your printer guidelines to "actual size" so that your compater doesn't change the size of the image on you. Although with a pillow it's not the end of the world if it comes out a bit small, this can be a big issue with garment patterns, so you should just get in the habit of doing this anyway :)
Now take a look at the photo below. This is what we are aiming for when your pattern is all put together. You can refer back to this picture if you aren't sure that you got it right.
Lay out all the pages so that all the numbers and letters in the diamonds match up. A1 with match with A1 and so on.
Once you have the pages in the right order, we can start trimming and taping them. Take the top row, and cut off the extra border along the left side of each of the pages. Then you can tape those cut edges on top of the extra borders still on the right sides of the pages, making sure to match up the diamonds, and any pattern lines.
Once you have each of the rows across done in the same way, you can tape together the rows by cutting off the bottom edge border of the top row and taping it onto the top of the row below. Once you have them all taped together, you can cut out your individual pattern pieces. And now your pattern is ready for use!
I'll see you back this weekend for Part 3: Cutting out the fabric and quilting the front.
Extra tip: I just came across this video by Elizabeth Made This through a Closet Case Patterns Maker Journal email. She shows a great tip for putting together your PDF patterns even faster!
Don't Forget: Look at Part 1 for a list of all the materials you need to gather for this weekend!
Also, you can ask me questions, and share your techniques and advice with other sewists following along as well! You can leave comments and questions here on the blog, in our Goheen Patterns Sewing Group on facebook, or on instagram with the hashtag
Hello and welcome to the Tombstone Pillow Sewalong! It's time to start thinking about Halloween decorations (I just got mine out of storage today!) and this creepy pillow is a great addition to any spooktakular home setup!
If you don't have your own copy of the pattern yet, you can pick it up in the Goheen Pattterns shop, or in my GreenGraves Etsy shop.
If you would like to order a custom Tombstone (you get to pick what the epitaph is) I can do that too!
The Tombstone Pillow Sewing Pattern is rated CONFIDENT on my sewing levels chart. This means that you sew on the regular, are familiar with sewing patterns, and you know your sewing machine like the back of your hand! Basically, if you have never sewn anything before in your life, this one might not be the pattern to start with.
HOW IT WORKS
Over the next few weeks, I'll publish a series of blog posts taking you step by step through the entire process of making your own tombstone, from PDF pattern to finished pillow. You can sew along with me, ask me questions, and share your techniques and advice with other sewists following along as well! You can leave comments and questions here on the blog, in our Goheen Patterns Sewing Group on facebook, or on instagram with the hashtag
I'll try my best to answer any questions as quickly as I can, but feel free to jump in and help each other out too!
The Tentative Schedule for the Sewalong is:
Aug 17th - Part 1 - Intro, Gathering Materials
Aug 20th - Part 2 - Putting together the pattern
Aug 23rd - Part 3 - Cutting out the fabric, and Quilting the front
Aug 30th - Part 4 - Making cording and Sewing your tombstone together
Oct 7th - Part 5 - Flipping, Clipping, Stuffing, and Closing your pillow
Show off your finished pillows! To be featured, email me a photo at firstname.lastname@example.org or use #TombstoneSewalong
So if all goes according to plan, you will have a finished decoration by Oct 7th! Plenty of time to use it for Halloween 2017!
GATHERING YOUR MATERIALS
Materials and Tools you need by Aug 20th, for Part 2:
- The pattern (available in the pattern shop)
- A way to print the pattern (printer at home or at a copy shop)
- Paper Scissors
- Clear Tape
- A ruler or measuring tape
Materials and Tools you need by Aug 23rd, for Part 3:
- 1yd (1 meter) of any 40-60" wide woven fabric, prewashed. I love using a nice textured grey fabric from the home decor section!
- 1/2 yd (1/2 meter) of "lining", prewashed. This can be any fabric at all, it will not be seen on the outside of your tombstone, so it is a great stash buster.
- 1/2 yd (1/2 meter) of any quilt batting (18"x22" for you scrap busters)
- Contrast Top stitching Thread (black thread is great on a grey tombstone)
- 145" of 5/32 of welt cording (370 cm) Etsy is a great place to find this if it's not at your local craft store. You can also sub in 5/32 inch clothesline found at a hardware store or even a grocery store!
- Fabric Scissors
- Fabric marker/chalk
- Sewing Machine
- Handsewing Needle
- Skinny Black marker
- Press and Seal OR Transfer Paper OR Tissue Paper
That's it for now! I'll see you back for Part 2 on the 20th!
Let me know if you have any questions about gathering materials!
I was originally going to include this blog post in with the London Sewing Tour of 2017, but my love for this magazine spilled over into too many words, so I decided to separate it from the fabric shopping tour. I spotted this magazine in the Manchester airport during our layover on our way to London this summer, and instantly loved it. I took a picture of it so that I could remember what it was called, but then when I was in the public toilet Eddie snuck back and bought it for me (this is typically how things go in our relationship. I want something but will never allow myself to buy it, and then Eddie forces me to get it or surprises me with it) So, I had a very pleasant 2 hour layover reading my new magazine!
Apparently, there is a reason I’ve never come across La Maison Victor in Indiana, because this is the first issue in English! One of the biggest things about this magazine that I love is the overall aesthetic. The photos are just the right mix of being beautifully professional but without everyone looking like mannequins. I have very strong opinions on sewing pattern photos and illustrations, often finding that even if a pattern itself is trendy and modern, the photo in the pattern catalog still somehow makes it look like something from the 2000’s, just slightly too out of date to be appealing.
Anyway, along with the beautiful inspiration you get from this issue, you also get 8 free sewing patterns with full size pattern pieces! 8 patterns for £5.99 is a steal! Speaking as someone who has designed patterns, I really don’t know how that is even possible.
Something else that I really appreciate about La Maison Victor is that they offer not just women’s patterns, but also men’s, children’s and baby’s patterns too! Along with the sewing patterns, there are other DIY projects sprinkled throughout too including an extremely cute sweater you can knit, a DIY flower crown, and a couple of home décor projects too. Different skill levels, very inclusive sizing, and step-by-step tutorials add even more to this already delightful magazine. The only thing that I don’t know yet is how well the patterns are made, because I haven’t had a chance to test one out yet. But once I do, I’ll let you all know!
This blog post may be coming a little late, but my excitement about releasing a garment pattern is so fresh that I figured it’s still relevant!
The process of creating and releasing a sewing pattern, especially one that requires grading and testing, is a lengthy one. I started patterning my first rendition of The Eddie Tank in January, and didn’t release the finished pattern until May. Obviously, I wasn’t working non-stop on this project all those months. I was also working my day job, fulfilling Etsy orders, working on the wholesale side of my business, and also doing all the back end administrative work as well. Finding (or creating) time to work on the patterning side of my business isn’t always easy. Which is why I’m so excited to finally have the fruits of my labor ready for the picking!
The Eddie was inspired back in January by…. You guessed it…. Eddie! For those of you who don’t know him, Eddie is my husband, and his signature look in life is a running singlet. Years of running every day, often multiple times a day, means that running tank tops are one of the staples of his closet, and an easy pick even for when he’s lounging around in the Indiana summer heat.
Inspired by this, I wanted to create a simple, comfortable, and stylish workout tank that is a quick sew.
For my household, this garment is one that we can make over and over, and wear over and over.
Exercise is a very high priority to us, and we aim to work out in some form every day, and Eddie's usual form is running. And when you run every day, you can go through 7 of these puppies in a week. And that is only if we manage to do laundry every week (we don’t). So quick to sew was a must. Stylish is the other side of the coin. The swoosh in the front is just enough to add some interest to the tank, a way to make it stylish, and a way for you to individualize your singlet by incorporating different fabrics into the same tank. The bound arm and neck holes also allow for a contrasting fabric, and give the top a very clean, professional look. Also, the side panels not only add to the style of the top, but also allow for use of a mesh fabric to keep super cool and comfortable when you are working out.
For this sample of the Eddie tank, I used performance honeycomb mesh on the top and sides and regular performance mesh for the main back and front pieces. I found these at my local Joann’s (I was surprised too!) and they have been great to work with.
Along with all the photos I took of Eddie in the Eddie (he is such a trooper) I wanted to share some of my testers’ photos too! They did a great job, and I love seeing the different color combinations they came up with.
Basically, I love my Eddies, both human and fabric, and I can’t wait to see even more of them pop up as more people try out one of their own.
creative business owner. designer. hoosier. crafter. runner. sewer. swing dancer. outdoor enthusiast. entrepreneur. wife. material hoarder.
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Madeline Stage email@example.com
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