Goheen
  • Home
  • Pattern Shop
    • Shop Patterns
    • Shop Kits
    • Sizing Chart
    • Skill Levels Chart
    • Pattern Kit Instructions
    • Corrections
  • Green Graves
  • The Community
  • Blog
    • Blog
    • Blog Archives
  • About
  • My Makes
  • Stockists
  • Search

Kelly Anorak Wearable Muslin

2/12/2020

0 Comments

 
closet case's kelly anorak wearable muslin
Let me preface this post by saying that this is a classic example of how I work on my projects. And it gives you a little insight as to why I take so long to get anything done.
​
kelly anorak color hack
I've been eyeing everyone's Kelly Anoraks for years. And actually, I've been planning on making one for years. I received the printed pattern and the hardware kit as a Christmas gift in 2017. But, I got a little distracted what with being pregnant and having a baby and the project got pushed back. By the end of 2018 I was itching to get back to it, but my body still wasn't back to a normal shape. I wanted to wait until my boobs returned to a normal, non-breastfeeding size. But since I was eager to get started, I used the black friday sales of 2018 to buy the fabric I wanted for my new jacket. I scoured the #kellyanorak to see what colors and fabrics I liked for the jacket, and (after a ton of deliberation) settled on a beautiful 8.5oz Cotton Chino Twill in Olive from Blackbird Fabrics for the outside, and a fun Robert Kaufman Taos Flannel from Hancock's of Paducah for a warm lining. But here's the thing. I hardly ever buy nice new fabric for myself. I get so much fabric handed down to me, or I rescue it from being thrown away, or when I do buy it's for my customers. So I was (and still am) pretty nervous to cut into all this beautiful new yardage. So I decided to make a muslin. I often skip this step because I don't get a ton of time for selfish sewing, so I don't want to take the time. But I knew a muslin would help me feel more confident, so I decided to go for it. But, since I don't like "wasting" my sewing time and fabric (I know it's not really a waste!) I decided to make a wearable muslin. Basically, that means I make a whole one, in real fabric, with all the finishes, but it's one that I don't need to feel perfectionistic about. I decided to just make a straight size 12, without worrying about fit alterations for the muslin. ​I shopped my stash, found some scraps I could work with, and got to work!
kelly anorak fabrics
pieced together kelly anorak
color blocked kelly anorak
sewing a color blocked jacket
And I do mean scraps. I didn't have enough of any one fabric to use for the outer shell or for the lining, so this coat has a mishmash of 4 different fabrics. Because I knew that I would be using two different fabrics for the outside of the coat, I tried to be strategic with how I cut out my pieces, to give it an intentional color blocked look. I really like the result! This pattern lends itself really well to color blocking, since the sleeve is already two pieces, and the back and front shoulders are also separate pattern pieces already as well. The only piece I had to split to fit the colorblock was the front placket (piece J) since I wanted the dividing line to continue across the chest uninterrupted.
sewing a jacket
kelly anorak hardware kit
scraptastic kelly anorak
sewing your stash
There were a few more changes that had to happen due to my fabric shortage:
- The upper back had to be pieced together (5 pieces!) But I rather like it. 
- I had to use lining instead of facings for the inside of the hood. 
- Same with some of the zipper facings
- I have two different lining fabrics. It's a bit of a mess in there. Very Frankenstein-ish. But that's also because I was experimenting on the inside of the coat (more on that later).
​- The gusseted flap pockets turned into welt flap pockets. Completely due to lack of fabric. But really, I had a lot of fun with this change! It had been ages since I'd done welt pockets, and this was a good refresher. Actually, a bit of a mind bender. Redoing the pattern pieces to be an overlapping double welt pocket with one of those welts folding back on itself to be the flap.... it took some doing. I'm considering putting up a little tutorial on my blog, for anyone who wants to create a similar look. Let me know if you would be interested! 
memade kelly anorak
welt flap pockets kelly anorak
welt pockets in my kelly anorak
hacked kelly anorak with welt pocket
I write all this as if it all happened at once, or at least relatively close together. But that is definitely not the case. It was more like: I put the tiled lining pattern together in January (of 2019), shopped my stash for test fabric in February, washed the fabric in March (note to self: wash cold tumble dry low), traced the pattern in April, cut the pattern in May, and began sewing in June. Then, I had the idea to combine this Kelly Anorak test with a test for my Threads competition piece pattern, to see if my transformation idea was on the right track. (I can't really share any more detail than that. I'm sworn to secrecy until the next issue of Threads comes out, at which point you will be buried in an avalanche of photos and posts about this top secret project) So, by the end of June, once I did that Threads test run, and my Kelly Anorak wearable muslin was 90% done, I dove straight into my competition piece, which took up all my extra sewing time right up until the competition in October. So my Kelly sat in my closet, waiting for snaps and a few final hand stitches from June all the way until 2020 rolled around. Then I finally took it out of the closet, to my January sewing retreat, and finished that puppy up in about a half hour.
snap flap pocket sewing
hacking the kelly anorak
sewing a color blocked kelly anorak
fresh kelly anorak
Part of me wants to be able to say that this long drawn out sewing saga is atypical. But really, it is pretty spot on. I'm always using what I have and just "making it work" and I'm always so excited about starting new projects that, inevitably, the ones I'm currently working on take 10x longer than necessary to finish. And let's be honest: this saga isn't even over.
Since I still haven't started my "real" Kelly Anorak......
color blocking a memade jacket
finished kelly anorak
sewing pattern for anorak
welt pockets with a flap
Overall, I love the pattern, the instructions were great, I love that they offer the hardware kits, and it was genuinely fun to sew. The back and sleeves are a little too tight when I try to drive or hug anyone, but even with 0 alterations, I'm going to get a lot of wear out of this jacket! 
Pattern changes to make for Kelly #2 (AKA the "Real" one):
Broad back adjustment
Shift the armscye forward
Raise the underarm
Shorten the jacket by about 4"
Move pockets up? and use the original gusseted pocket design
Add pockets (or faux ones) to the chest? 
Keep sleeves unlined and use the cuff pieces?
Make the hood detachable with snaps, or just do the collar.
Cover the snap backs in the pockets (I read a review warning me about these snaps being uncomfortable, but I really didn't think they would bother me. Apparently the backs of our hands are more sensitive than I thought)
kelly anorak back
kelly anorak review
kelly anorak sewing adventure
colorblock hacked kelly anorak
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    madeline stage

    creative business owner. designer. hoosier. crafter. runner. sewer. swing dancer. outdoor enthusiast. entrepreneur. wife.  material hoarder.


    Categories

    All
    Eddie Pattern
    Goals
    Inara
    Inspiration
    Madi Pattern
    My Makes
    News
    Products
    Sewalong
    Sewing Patterns
    Sewing Tips
    Sponsored


    Archives

    December 2021
    October 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    October 2020
    July 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    December 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    May 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015


    RSS Feed

    follow us in feedly
    My Instagram Feed:
    @GoheenDesigns

    Subscribe to our mailing list

    * indicates required

Contact Me

Madeline Stage madeline.goheen@gmail.com
1-260-403-9348
Libertyville, IL

Weekly Mantra:

Right here. Right now.

Click here for the Privacy Policy

Quick Links

Blog
​About
Patterns
Sizing Chart
Kit Instructions
Sewing Level Chart
Handmade Products
© COPYRIGHT 2021. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • Home
  • Pattern Shop
    • Shop Patterns
    • Shop Kits
    • Sizing Chart
    • Skill Levels Chart
    • Pattern Kit Instructions
    • Corrections
  • Green Graves
  • The Community
  • Blog
    • Blog
    • Blog Archives
  • About
  • My Makes
  • Stockists
  • Search